BLONDES CAN COOK
By Leslee Komaiko
For dineLA.com
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Josie Le Balch might have been born in New York City, but the chef-owner of Josie is pure California. For starters, there are her golden locks. Then there’s the fact that she’s a Valley girl, by virtue of her growing grown up in the San Fernando Valley (not because of a “trapped in the 80s” speech impediment). But mostly it’s her extraordinary progressive American food at her charming, justifiably beloved and critically acclaimed restaurant on an otherwise unremarkable stretch of Pico Boulevard in Santa Monica. Her California-menu always reflects the season and the very best produce sourced from local farmers.
Josie is off the beaten track. What did you see in the location?
I had been looking for a space for a couple of years and chomping at the bit. The neighborhood was a bit frightening. My [business] partner said he probably wouldn’t come because he wouldn’t feel safe parking his car. On the other side, it’s down the street from Valentino and real estate was going up.
You’ve had several dishes on the menu since you opened in 2001, correct?
We had a trout on the menu at Saddle Peak Lodge, then did a version at the Beach House. That’s where people really caught on to it. It seemed like I couldn’t not do it. The mushroom sandwich, too, I did at Saddle Peak. You get known for stuff. I think it’s respect for the customers in a lot of ways. The struggle for me is I want to do new things. I’m always conflicted.
One thing I love about the restaurant, in addition to the food, is the fact that it doesn’t aspire to trendiness. There’s no fire pit. You don’t serve sushi. Trendiness to me right now is having the farmers market be such a positive influence.
Since you brought up the farmers market, any thoughts on the recent controversy about the market: that chefs are being shut out by middle men who are buying everything up?
The thing that has bothered me about the market is that when all the farmers found out what the chefs wanted, like fava beans, that’s what they would sell. I can’t blame them. It’s a business. But then that dictates the market as opposed to the market dictating what’s on the menu.
Tell us about that amazing quiche you serve to every customer.
That was my father’s recipe. My dad was a chef at the Escoffier, a restaurant at the top of the Beverly Hilton. When I was trying to get my place open we knew we wanted to have an amuse. But we never knew what day we were going to open. We were still fighting with the city and one of the homeowners. Jill [Davie, former chef de cuisine] said, “Let’s just do the quiche. They last five days in the fridge. We can make a bunch of them. We’ll be ready.” Plus, it’s a little ode to my dad.
What’s it like working with your husband?
I met Frank [Delzio, Josie general manager] when he was working at a different restaurant. It was neat to come home and be able to bitch about your manager. I look at Frank whenever things are crazy. It’s very safe and comforting to know we don’t both have to be there. But it has its struggles.
Is it by design that you have hired women?
The Beach House was the first time I hired a couple of gals to work the line. Not because I wouldn’t have earlier but because they weren’t available. It’s really changed in the last 10 years. There are a lot more women in the kitchen than you realize. With Jill, I remember the first couple of months she was constantly fighting me for the order book. I always do all my own ordering. Then I realized, “oh, my God.” It’s great. She’s a chick. She’s as neurotic as I am. I just look for really great people that fit in with us.
What are you excited about right now?
I’m friggin’ ecstatic that Gloria’s corn is out. She’s on 2nd Street at the Wednesday Santa Monica farmers market. She’s also at the Saturday market on Pico. She has this beautiful yellow corn and the white corn just started.
Do you have a favorite kitchen tool?
Right now for the white asparagus, the German asparagus peeler is quite handy. I also use them to peel artichokes. I like to keep the stem on. People do it with a paring knife and cut their fingers off. They have them at Sur la Table. You can use them with regular asparagus too.
What was the last good restaurant meal you had in LA?
I went to Osteria Mozza and had an unbelievable ravioli with broken egg on top.
Where else do you like to eat?
I always go to Campanile. Frank and I will escape out there to do brunch. You can take someone there and they can have waffles or a burger.
How about where you live in the Valley?
We used to go to this place called La Finestra. A couple guys bought it. I have not been back in four or five months. And I just found out there’s a California Pizza Kitchen at Northridge Mall. I get the chopped salad.
Does the number of restaurant openings give you pause?
The good thing is I don’t have to take chances. I have a beautiful restaurant. I don’t have the pressure. I’m thankful every day. I feel like I have this big sandbox and my farmers show up with toys every week.
Will the next place be a Josie?
I don’t think I would do a Josie again. It’s too exclusive. Right now I am working with a guy who has a really great fast, healthy, gourmet food concept that hasn’t been done yet. I haven’t seen anything in writing. But it might be something. I’m wide open. It’s a nice situation. Josie is the smallest thing I’ve ever done. I have a lot of enjoyment there. But I’d like to do something else.
